Most car enthusiasts hate rust with a passion, because once it starts it never seems to go away. However, growing up in Massachusetts, you quickly realize that cars without rust don’t exist in our area, and rust is just a part of life. Naturally, I want to do everything in my power to have a rust free car, and last summer, I found some rust hiding in the deepest darkest regions of my 1964 Chevy Impala. Describing where this metal came from is somewhat tough, but I’ll do my best. Ok, imagine a 1964 impala (sweet right?), now open the gas filler door. You see the filler pipe with the gas cap on the top of it. Surrounding that pipe is a piece of metal that is welded to the inside of the outer wheel house. This is THAT piece! Naturally water collects in there and rots out the whole area. I wasn’t having that so I tore it all out and began the rebuild.
First I removed it from the car and evaluated the situation at hand. The outer perimeter was completely rotted out and needing replacing.
I then cut all the edges off of it and began making replacements from flat sheetmetal. You can see where I welded the new pieces in on the back side in the next picture. With some of the compound curves, there is some metal stretching and shrinking involved. This can be done with hammers and dollies if you are really good, or you can buy yourself a metal stretcher & shrinker to make the job 1 million times easier. In any case, new pieces were then welded in and ground down to make them pretty again.
Then I decided that the easiest way to clean it up completely was to blast it with some extra fine sand. So blast I did.
With a little bit more massaging after this picture, it was completed, and then spot welded back into its happy home. See, rust isn’t so bad after all!
Yesterday, I was filling up some premium gas at a premium price, and began wondering why the heck they add the 9/10ths to the end of it? If the oil companies need that extra penny, just take it! Why do they need to bring fractions into my happy fraction-free lifestyle? Considering that they add a buck (or more) per gallon to the price of gas every summer anyway, I just don’t see the need for the extra 9/10ths of a cent. Is this something that was a really great idea in the 1920’s when a penny was a big deal? Or maybe it’s a conspiracy designed by high school math teachers to make us think that fractions are used “in the real world”. Of course I don’t want to pay more than I already do for gasoline, but that fraction really cramps my style when I’m pumping my fuel. Did I miss the day in school when they explained why this insanity exists? Is it common knowledge? Somebody help! Continue reading Why Is The 9/10ths Necessary When Buying Gas?
My friend and co-worker Scott Young and I have had a competition going on for about 12 years now. Every once in a while it comes up in conversation and puts the look of shock on people’s faces. Our competition is “who has owned the most vehicles”. We have defined “ownership” as having the vehicle’s title officially in that person’s name. In Massachusetts, getting a title can be a huge hassle, so we agreed this would be a great way to prove ownership. Now, we have been legally driving for about 12 years now, and the amount (and kind) of vehicles that we have owned could really make you question what is wrong with us. Some of these vehicles were great deals, and some were huge mistakes, but they were all great learning experiences.
1) 1964 Chevy Impala Convertible straight 6, 3 speed on the column:
I bought this car when I was 15, and started a body-off restoration to it. I have driven it 10 miles in 12 years. I still have it, because it is a lifelong project. Someday I might drive it a few more miles.
I spent about 1 million hours making this truck look discretely custom, super clean, and straight. Regretfully, I got bored with it and sold it for a mere $800. It is now in a junkard, completely destroyed. I visited her often to make sure she was ok, then one day she was gone.
3) 1995 Chevy S10 Truck:
It was ok for basic transportation, but terribly slow with it’s 2.2L & automatic transmission. I bet I drove it for a solid 4 months before selling it.
4) 1994 Chevy S10 Extended Cab Truck:
I liked this truck a lot. I lowered it, put a big stereo in it and tried to make it loud enough to set off car alarms. Gosh, I was a real jerk back then, I’m sorry about that.
5) 1994 Dodge Intrepid:
Awesomely big and comfortable car, but it ate up timing belts, water pumps and transmissions like nobody’s business. If it was a rear wheel drive car with a manual transmission, I would probably still have it. Unfortunately, it was just way too stressful to own. It was the only car I purposely did damage to. I still have nightmares about the timing belt I broke in a snowstorm, that was the absolute worst.
6) 1996 Saab 900 SE:
A fairly fun car to drive with the turbocharged engine, but replacing the clutch cables on a regular basis was getting annoying. It was also not a cheap car to fix when it needed parts.
7) 1990 Mitsubishi Mightymax:
This was my first truck that I did the turbocharged eclipse 4G63 engine swap to. I finished the engine swap and thought about driving it on the road legally. However, after realizing that it was going to take 10 years of bodywork to get the panels straight, I stripped it to a shell, and junked it. No regrets.
8 ) 1990 Plymouth Laser Fwd turbo:
For $300, I pulled this out of a back yard and drove it home with a bad turbo, running on 3 cylinders. I cleaned it up, replaced the turbo and the burned valve, and drove it for several thousand miles. Sold it to another 1A Auto employee that continued to drive it for many thousands of miles. It is rumored to be a full time drag car these days.
9) 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse AWD turbo:
This car was abandoned in a parking lot, and I had watched it sit there for about 2 years untouched. I hunted down the former owner, and bought it for $500. I threw a different ECU in it and planned on keeping it for many wonderful years. Unfortunately, I got pulled over a lot, and decided that it needed to go. It was also bought by the same 1A Employee that bought my Plymouth Laser. It was then sold to another friend of mine that is currently swapping a stroker motor into it.
This was the slower, 4 door, replacement car for the Eclipse. I bought it with an automatic transmission, and swapped it to a 5 speed manual transmission because automatics are awful. It starts everyday and always gets me where I’m going. I like it.
11) 1996 Chevy S10 Truck:
I got an absolutely spectacular deal on this and I knew the entire history of it. I drove it about 500 miles and sold it for a nice profit.
12) 1991 Chevy Camaro RS 305:
This car was received in trade for some work on our very own Rob Conlon’s 1975 Corvette. It really is a clean car, but the clearcoat just doesn’t want to stay on the roof for any period of time. I recently sold this one to a good home. It is in good hands.
This is my current truck that I put a turbocharged Eclipse 4G63 engine into. It is the cleanest truck that I have ever owned and the free price tag was just right. I thoroughly enjoy this truck and I hope I don’t come up with any reason to get rid of it. It is really quite fun to drive, and it doesn’t scream out “arrest me” while I drive through town.
14) 1988 Honda Hawk GT 650:
This is my motorcycle that I completely customized and ride in the summertime. It has 1964 impala tail lights, viper yellow paint, and a huge list of modifications. I like working on it more than I like riding it. I’m a car guy at heart.
This was a good deal like many of the vehicles that I have owned. Its fun in the sun, and makes me feel more important than everybody else on the road. I’m going to sell it soon because I don’t belong in this car, and I could use the driveway space.
1) 1980 Toyota Celica:
This car was the best off-roading vehicle that either of us have owned. It was rear wheel drive, had a manual transmission, and the reliability of a Toyota. If he didn’t total it, I have no doubt that it would be a full time race car right now. Gosh that car was fun.
2) 1986 Chevy K5 Blazer:
3 speed manual transmission, V8 and an unimaginable amount of rot. It was truly amazing that the body stayed in 1 piece, because there wasn’t a solid piece of metal on it. On the other hand, it was quite a reliable truck, I don’t believe it ever let him down.
A true piece of American history. This car was no less than 200 feet long, and the 14 additional speakers could deafen people from a 1/4 mile away. With it’s red racing stripes over the hood, it raced its way to the junkyard under its own power in 1st gear with no brakes. It was truly hilarious in every way, shape, AND form.
4) 1988 Chevy Camaro T-Top 2.8L (Z28 look-alike):
Scott got this Camaro for free because it had an engine fire, was disassembled, and left out in the weather for several years. As crazy as it sounds, the car was in great shape other than the engine. We put over 1 trillion hours of work into this car at the time, and it hated us in return. The injectors constantly had what appeared to be chocolate brownie stuck in them on the fuel side. The car had a new tank, new fuel lines and a dozen fuel filters. To our knowledge, the brownie fairy wasn’t filling his injectors in the middle of the night, so we were baffled. We both learned immensely from that car, and although it was a major headache at the time, I am glad he had it. I am also glad it is long gone.
5) 1988 Chevy K5 Blazer:
This truck was a value that could not be beat. It had new everything, looked great, but kids were scared to ride in it. So Scott bought it for about a 1/10 of what it was worth, and began customizing. It got a monster truck size lift kit, big tires, a light bar, soft top roof, vinyl floor covering, and a loud flowmaster exhaust. With all of these things combined, getting a legal inspection sticker became impossible. It was sadly sold, and the regret is still deep in Scott’s heart.
6) 1986 Mustang GT 5.0L:
This was free to Scott if we helped a friend move to a new house. The car had been sitting long enough to begin to sink into the PAVED driveway. After siphoning a few mouth fulls of bad gas out of the tank, we got her running again and drove her to her new home…. hidden at a friends house. Seriously, if Scott brought another junk car home, he may have been kicked out of the house. This was a decent car and quickly flipped for a decent profit.
7) 1964 Thunderbird 390:
Thunderbirds seem to always end up in Scott’s hands, nobody can explain it, because he doesn’t really even like Fords. Anywho, he bought this from my family, he did some work to it, and drove it a bit. Then he re-sold it to a friend that sadly parted it out. This was truly disappointing, because it was a very original car.
8 ) 1995 Ford Windstar Van (The Teal Serpent):
A free van can’t be passed up sometimes, even if it is teal green and was rumored to have a pair of blown head gaskets. After quickly learning that “head gasket in a bottle” doesn’t actually work as shown on TV, he replaced them the “right” way. It was then that he learned that the radiator was the actual problem that caused the head gaskets to blow from overheating. It was a learning experience for all parties involved. Good van, too bad it was so darn ugly.
9) 1998 Geo tracker:
This was passed down through Scott’s family until his sister released the pistons from the engine while driving down the highway. The carnage was immense, and fun to look at if it isn’t yours. Scott bought it off his sister and tossed an engine in it so that he had a reliable 4 wheel drive beater.
10) 1963 Ford Thunderbird:
People call Scott and myself all the time with automotive bargains, and this was one of those. It is a beautiful looking and driving T-bird that had been sitting in a friend’s driveway for a few years because the “family thing” happened. It is now in Scott’s capable hands and he drives it regularly to car shows and to get ice cream.
11) 1991 Honda Hawk GT 650:
Yes, Scott and I have the same bike… pretty much. After riding his bike, I knew I needed one too. I can’t say enough great things about Honda Hawk’s. They have a V-Twin, a single sided swing arm, and a short wheelbase to carve corners with. Both of our bikes are unbelievable fun to ride and extremely unique.
12) 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT:
While trying to sell “The Teal Serpent”, I nonchalantly put a sign on Scott’s windshield that said “may trade for Fiero” because he is a Fiero Fanatic. We laughed at the thought of a Fiero owner wanting a teal van in trade, but apparently it was nothing to laugh about. A guy left his business card on the windshield saying that he would sell his 1 owner 85 GT 4 speed V6 for “cheap money” if Scott was interested. Well, Scott sold the van, and bought that guy’s Fiero. It is currently in the middle of a fastback conversion. Hopefully we can get it done soon!
13) 1951 Dodge B Series Truck:
This was a good deal from a friend & fellow 1AAuto employee. It was sitting in her parents yard, and Scott was pretty sure he could do something with it. That is still yet to be determined.
14) 1992 Chevy Lumina:
The high class Geo Tracker was rear ended and totaled, so a replacement was needed fast. A few phone calls later, a $1, one-owner Lumina arrives. It had issues, but they are sorted out, and now he is riding in style. Temp gauge, oil gauge, voltage gauge? Who needs em!? Not this Chevy Lumina.
So as you can see, we have both had quite a few vehicles. This is not counting the ones that we have owned and not titled in our names. You can assume there have been 40-50% more if we included those, but that just wouldn’t be fair.
How does your collection compare? Do you have us beat?
Sometimes I dream of building a kit car that is stomach crushingly fast, can pull over a g-force around a sharp corner, and can stop so fast that your tongue sticks out. I need a car (or truck?) so disturbingly fast that I get sick when I drive it. I want to reach the end of a road before it even begins. If I were to stuff about 900 horsepower into an AWD “kit” car that weighed around 2000 lbs, it would likely plaster me in the drivers seat pretty well. I know what you are saying. “AWD!? Blasphemy!” I too am the type of guy that loves breaking the rear tires loose and getting the car sideways at every possible opportunity, but launching an AWD car at high rpm is really quite impressive. “The feeling of 4 tires vigorously ripping away at the pavement during extreme acceleration” really should be the definition of “Excitement”. I should contact Websters Dictionary on that.
Ok, so back to “reality”. Locost? GTM? MK4 Roadster? Factory Five 33 Hotrod? Porsche 356 Kit? There are so many more options, what would you guys & gals build if you have the space, time, motivation, and funding??
Recently I came to the conclusion that I need a bigger turbo for my truck, but since I’m cheap, I decided to commandeer a stock turbocharger from another factory built engine. Used stock turbos are almost always the cheapest to buy because people that drive newer factory turbocharged cars upgrade them for bragging rights. Some factory cars come with really nice turbochargers that shouldn’t be discarded as often as they are. Newer Volkswagens, GM & Ford diesels, and Mitsubishi’s all have great turbos on them that are just asking to be mounted onto engines that they don’t belong on. The problem is that you need to figure out which turbo is the best size for your application. As you may guess, this is when math enters the building. The good news is that I have done most of it for you.
I created a turbo sizing spreadsheet that calculates the engine air flow with or without a turbocharger in CFM and Lbs/Min based on inputs of your choosing. Just change the numbers in the green boxes to your own specification to display your air flow. Once your numbers are all in there, you can compare them to any turbo compressor map. This will help you determine the which size turbo is best for your application.
Step 1: Cubic Inches. Type in the cubic inches of your engine into the upper green box. In my case, I am starting with a 2.0L engine which is 122 cubic inches. If you don’t know your cubic inches, I made a conversion box for that too. Cell H19, check it out.
Step 2: Volumetric Efficiency. Now you need to take an educated guess at your volumetric efficiency. In the most basic of words, this is a measurement of how efficiently your engine can move air/fuel into and out of your engine. Unless you have a really polished high performance engine, your volumetric efficiency is probably somewhere between 75% and 90%. I have read that most modern 4 valve engines are in the neighborhood of 85%, so that’s what I’m going with for mine.
Step 3: Boost! This is how much pressure you expect your turbo to make when you are beating the heck out of it. I’m going with 20 psi here as a starting point.
Step 4: Ambient Temperature is the temperature outside. 85 degrees sounds like a perfect sunny day!
Step 5: Compressor Efficiency Range. This is found on a compressor map like this one from turboneticsinc.com. You can see that towards the bottom of each ring, there is a number in the 60’s and 70’s. That is your compressor efficiency within that lobe of the compressor map. You want to land above 70% when all the math is done. Throw “70” in that box as a starting point. The more efficient your turbo is, the less heat your turbo makes. As the efficiency goes down, the outlet temperature of the turbo goes up. Simple enough right?
Step 6: Intercooler Efficiency / Intercooler Pressure Drop / Air Filter Pressure Drop. I have read the most “decent” intercoolers are around 60-65% efficient, with .5-1 PSI of pressure drop. The average air filter has .5-1 PSI of pressure drop before the turbo. Some high performance air filters actually list this stat, which is pretty awesome. Naturally you want the least amount of pressure drop possible across the intercooler and air filter, with the highest efficiency intercooler. Little changes in these areas pay huge dividends in horsepower. Play with the numbers a bit and look how much the air flow changes.
Step 7: Engine Compression Ratio. This is something that you will need to look up, or figure out mathematically for your engine. It represents the ratio of the combustion chamber volume; its largest capacity to its smallest capacity. In my case 8.5 to 1.
With these inputs, you can see how the air flow changes in columns B, C, and D based on RPM (Column A). If you have a compressor map for the potential turbocharger for your vehicle, you can determine if it will be within the turbochargers efficient range based on your engine specs.
Let’s see an example, shall we?
I am too scared to rev my engine past 7000 rpm, so why don’t we assume that 7K is my red line. At that rpm, my max air flow is 31.53 lbs/min (426.24 CFM). My Density Ratio (Cell K4 in the spreadsheet), is 2.03. (Density Ratio is more accurate to use on compressor maps because it accounts for temperature.) Cross those two points on the compressor map (seen in red), and you notice that I would actually be ~73% efficient at 7000 rpm. This sounds like a great place to be, except that I rarely hang out at 7K rpm. The majority of my time is spent at 2500-4500 rpm, which would put me below 70% on the compressor map. This is hard on the turbo, and worse for performance. So for me, this turbo is just too big! I would need something smaller for my engine to be happy at lower rpm’s.
I have owned more Chevy S10 truck’s than I care to admit. The one thing in common with all of these trucks is that they all needed shocks. I don’t know if there is a shock eating gremlin that comes stock with these trucks or what, but they don’t seem to survive. As you may have guessed, Here at 1AAuto, we show you how to do it!
Tanner Foust has a new drift video out that you definitely need to watch. It takes place on a section of the Mulholland Highway, known as “The Snake”. I dunno how you land a gig like that, but I have to assume that he and Ken Block are two of the happiest guys on earth. I mean seriously, is there anything better than beating the snot out of a car that somebody else paid for?