Pic Of The Day: A Truck Load Of Dodge Charger Daytona’s.

With this much wing, I’m amazed the whole truck didn’t fly away.  Was it true that you can sit on the top of one of these wings?  That’s the rumor going around.

Daytona Car Carrier

Original image borrowed from:

http://img.photobucket.com

Hydraulic Clutches Are Just Better, So I Swapped It.

Sometimes vehicles are just not made the way that you want them to be, so you are forced to take matters into your own hands and correct it.  Today’s blog is one of those situations.  See, my truck came with a cable actuated clutch, which works absolutely great for a stock clutch.  Unfortunately, I inserted Frankenstein into the equation and ruined all chances of clutch cable survival.  To be honest, I feel like all clutches should be hydraulically actuated. I know, I know, mustangs are yadda yadda, and they work fine. I know, it’s just my opinion.  Anyway, the firewall of my truck was not up for the challenge of a cable pushing harder than normal on it.  The truck is likely made from recycled beer cans (sometimes the truth hurts), and would have destroyed itself if I had used it that way much longer.  Not to mention, my left leg was getting an unnecessary workout, which made driving in traffic miserable.  I knew that there was a better way – hydraulics.

I started by commandeering a hydraulic clutch system from an early 1980′s Dodge Ram turbo diesel (yes, they really existed).  This pile of parts included a bell housing cutout that would need to be hacked into my non-hydraulic bell housing.  Cool right?

I knew that the only way to keep ambition high all day was to start off with easy stuff.  Naturally installing the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder was the first step.  The cool thing about this was that the firewall already had a spot for the clutch master cylinder to be mounted because the V6 models came with hydraulic clutches. Sweeeeeet Action!!  Some drilling, grinding, and bending happened, and Poof!  It was done.

Next up was the transmission itself.  I pulled the transmission out, and chased it around with a sawzall and a cut-off wheel.  The TIG welder made a brief appearance on the scene, and then two pieces of aluminum became one.  It was as if it was meant to be.   The next issue was that factory 2.0L KM132 transmission didn’t have a spot for a pivot ball to be mounted.  Uh Oh…. Luckily I had some old 2.6L transmissions hanging around waiting to be stripped of their valuable parts.  Off came the front case that can be seen in this picture, some grinding ensued, and VIOLA!  Pivot ball in place  Hydraulic lines were plumbed, and fluids were topped off.  Time to celebrate? Nah.

Once wrapped up, the clutch felt better than ever before.  The pedal was about 100x easier to push down, it engaged and disengaged perfectly, and sure enough, the firewall no longer flexes at all.  I will officially declare this as the 2nd best upgrade that has been done to the truck.  The only thing that it falls behind is the engine swap itself.

Car Projects: Do You Have a Frankenstein Too?

July 2010_1

Over the past weekend, while making a new alternator mount for my truck on the wrong side of the engine, I began thinking ….. just how many vehicles have donated parts to this Ram 50 truck project?  Hmmm, maybe I will start a list?

The Truck:

1989 Dodge Ram 50 macro cab.

The vehicles that have donated to the truck & their donations:

1983? Mitsubishi Mightymax Bellhousing Cut-out, Clutch Fork, Pivot Ball, Slave Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder
1985 Mitsubishi Montero Limited Slip Differential
1986? Mitsubishi Starion Transmission Tail Section & Shifter
1987 Dodge Ram 50 5-Speed Manual Transmission & Manual Steering Box
1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ignition Coil
1991 Plymouth Laser AWD 4G63 2.0L Turbo Engine
1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L Front Wheel Drive Flywheel & Pressure Plate
1991 Mitsubishi Mightymax 2.4L Waterpump (modified)
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L Thermostat Housing Cap
1993 Honda Accord Wagon Bucket Seats.
1993-96 Mitsubishi Mightymax Grille & Front Bumper
2002 Dodge Viper Front/Rear Brake Calipers, 13″ Rear Rotors, Brake Master Cylinder
2005 Cadillac CTS-V Front Cross Drill Rotors
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution 16G Turbo, Exhaust Manifold & Intercooler
2007 Cadillac Escalade 18″ Wheels

Got A Frankenstein’ed car or truck?  I want to know about it!  Post a Comment or Send Pictures & Info to me at blog@1aauto.com

14B VS. EVO VIII 16G Photo Comparison

EVO VIII 16G Compressor

14B VS. EVO VIII 16G Photo Comparison

Recently I installed an EVO VIII 16G turbo on my 6-bolt 4G63 engine swapped 1989 Dodge Ram 50 truck. Since I love seeing how things work, I decided to take them apart and compare them. As you can see in the pictures below, the EVO 8 turbo is a twin scroll and the 14B is not.  The wastegate is far larger on the EVO turbo as well, which is very good news because the 14B internal gate is less than impressive.  Naturally the compressor and turbine wheels are a bit more elaborate on the 16G as well.

My Hypothesis: Math says the EVO VIII 16G should flow about 50% more air than the 14B did, which means more air at less pressure, less heat soak, and twin scroll should make the spool time between the 16G and 14B negligible.

Results from the butt dyno:  The 14B was set at 18PSI and was a lot of fun, because it could break the rear tires loose in 1st and 2nd gear when the turbo spooled.  With the new turbo on and the wastegate plugged directly into the intercooler piping (stock actuator pressure is about 12psi I believe), the truck was neeeearly as fast as the 14B at 18PSI.  It spools at about 150 rpm more than the 14B, and the boost came on so much smoother.  Once I got used to the new turbo, and made sure everything was functioning properly, I cranked the boost up to 20 to see what would happen.

Tire spin in 3rd is what happened.

Traction Bars: Somewhere in the back of my mind, I had a vision of my rear differential wrapping up and ripping my driveshaft apart.  I knew that my truck’s suspension wasn’t exactly designed for 250+ hp, and since I know my stock / lowered suspension was on borrowed time, I decided traction bars would be a smart idea.  Not only would they prevent my truck’s axle from flipping over backward and turning my driveshaft into a pogo stick, but, it might actually provide traction through my Z rated 255/45/18′s!  In went the new traction bars.

As if by some miracle, almost all of my missing traction was back again!  I couldn’t believe it!  These things really work! Now I can keep traction in 2nd gear (if I want), and spinning the tires in 3rd just plain won’t happen no matter how hard I try.

WIN is the word, EVO VIII is the reason, TRACTION BARS is how.

I Decided to Upgrade the Brakes on My Truck.

Hi,
I recently decided that I hated the stock brakes on my 1989 Dodge Ram 50.  (It also has a 4G63 turbo engine, custom blah blah…..etc. )  Anyway, a friend of mine gave me four super low mileage calipers and rotors for a early 2000′s Dodge Viper, so I knew what I had to do.
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/viperbrakes4.jpg[/img]
I started by buying a Dodge Viper master cylinder, and making an adapter to go from Viper master to Ram 50 booster…..
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakeadapterblock.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakeadapter3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakeadapter2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakeadapter.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakeadapter1.jpg[/img]
I then realized that the 13″ front Viper rotors were just not going to work out because their depth was too deep, and hit the spindle.  Soooooo I did some researching and end up with cross drilled and slotted Cadillac CTS-V 14″ rotors.  They fit much better.
Now that I had the “right” rotors, it was time to make some Viper front caliper > Dodge Ram 50 spindle brackets.
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/brakecaliperadapters.jpg[/img]
Test fitted on the truck
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/viperctsvbrakes.jpg[/img]
My 17″ wheels no longer fit, so I got some 18″ x 8 Escalade wheels, bored out the centers and did more test fitting.
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/viperbrakes6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/viperbrakes7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/viperbrakes8.jpg[/img]
At some point, I made the rear caliper brackets & brake lines.  I apparently didn’t take pictures of that.  I used the 13″ Viper rear rotors (I used to have like 10″ drums), and Viper calipers.  I even hooked up my e-brake so it works properly.
Once together, I decided that black wheels are way more rad than silver, so black wheel paint was added (don’t mind how dirty the wheels/truck are).
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/wheelsontruck3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/wheelsontruck4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/wheelsontruck5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/images/89d50/wheelsontruck6.jpg[/img]
Ta-da. Now I can stop fast enough that my tongue sticks out.
-Jeremy

At The 1AAuto Car Show!

I recently decided that I hated the stock brakes on my 1989 Dodge Ram 50.  In the 4 + years that I have owned the truck, they have never been quite right.  Rather than putting time, effort, and money into the stock brakes, I decided to do a little bit of an upgrade.  A good friend of mine gave me four super low mileage calipers and rotors from a early 2000′s Dodge Viper, so I really had no choice with what to do with them.  One way or another, I was going to get them onto my truck.

I began the swap by purchasing a 2008 Dodge Viper master cylinder and designed a way to mate it to my truck’s brake booster.  Then I had my brother in law build the adapter with his absolutely amazing machining skills.  While he was working hard, I provided the moral support, entertaining banter, a delicious meal, and beverages.   After a few hours and some serious mathematics, the adapter was complete.

I then started working on the front brake setup, and it was not looking good.  The front Viper rotors were going to hit the tie rod ends.  There was no way that the Viper rotors were going to work. So, the research ensued.  I measured the night away and decided what the perfect size rotor would be.  It turns out that 14″ Cadillac CTS-V rotors were what I need. Overkill much? A short time passed and I was the proud owner of cross drilled and slotted CTS-V rotors.  They were massive, so massive that I began questioning my own sanity.  Ah well, too late. I began fitting them on the truck and all was looking well.  I just needed to bore out the center of the rotor and redrill the mounting holes.  Back up to my brother in laws I went….  Food, drink, entertaining banter, and machining happened. Viola!  The rotors were now a bolt on affair.

Next up was caliper brackets.  There were a bit on the tricky side to make, luckily I was good in geometry class, and I had a brother in law that wasn’t sick of me yet.  You know how it goes, food, banter, drink, caliper brackets = done.

The rear brakes were a little tricky because I needed to hook the emergency brake cables into the Viper calipers.  Amazingly, with a little drilling and reworking of caliper brackets, it all fell into place.  It was as if this was all meant to be.  With more braking, I knew I needed more rubber on the road, so I also upgraded my wheels and tires to 18″ Cadillac Escalade wheels with 255/45/18 inch Z rated tires.

Naturally, the obvious question comes next…. Do they actually work? You bet they do.  I can now stop fast enough to make my tongue stick out.  I’m not sure if I can stop as well as a Viper (maybe better? gasp!), but this big brake upgrade has vastly exceeded all of my expectations.  The feel of the pedal is at least 4000x better, and the added weight on each corner actually makes the truck feel more stable.  I can’t explain it, it just is what it is.  Accept it.

Tuesday = 1929 Whippet Turbo SRT-4

Today’s project car was spotted on killbillet.com and is truly a bizarre combination of old rusty sheetmetal, and modern engine technology.  The user who goes by the name of “kberjian” acquired a destroyed Dodge Neon SRT-4 chassis and drivetrain, and knew that it belonged in the back of a 1929 Whippet that was sitting around the family farm.  He dragged them both into a garage and began creating a rear engine, tilt body, ’29 Whippet.  When done, it will likely do wheelies and be quite horrifying exciting to drive.  If it were up to me, I would have used a Jeep transmission behind the SRT-4 engine and kept it front engine, but you know what, it’s not my build… Obviously, it is still an unfinished project, but I will be keeping my eye on it for updates.  I’m quite anxious to see this car move under it’s own power.

Found on:

http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=23494

(login might be required)

Top 5 cars that you MUST own at some point in life.


I am a big dreamer, so I often dream about the cars that I MUST own at some point in life. I do imaginary ground up builds in my head, with awesome engines, transmissions, brakes, paint, and everything in between. The stuff I dream about is usually strange stuff that nobody else wants, but that’s the fun of it, you can build it your crazy way.

So here are MY MUST have’s, in no particular order:

1964 Chevy Impala Convertible
- Aluminum block 409 cubic inch engine, fuel injected, with twin turbo’s and a giant intercooler hiding behind the grille.
- 6-speed manual transmission
- 4 wheel, 6 piston Brembo disc brakes
- Stock looking wheels, dog dish hubcaps, with white wall tires
- Dark green paint? Maybe Black? I am undecided at this point.
- Coil over suspension, very very low to the ground.

1939 Graham Sharknose Supercharged Convertible
- Supercharged factory engine
- 100% bone stock. It’s a work of art, I can’t possibly modify a car that they only produced 1 of!

1989 Dodge Ram 50 Extended Cab
- Painted all black with black 18 inch wheels, and 5% tinted windows
- 4G63 turbocharged Mitsubishi Eclipse engine
- Evo VIII turbocharger, custom intake & exhaust manifolds
- 6 speed T-56 transmission
- Lowered 4 inches with coil overs and 4-linked rear suspension
- Ice cold A/C

1936 Lincoln Zephyr 2 Door Coupe (2 door sedan pictured)
- Factory V12 engine with a new centrifugal supercharger for a little fun
- Lowered about 6 inches
- Stock wheels, wide white wall tires
- Again, it is a work of art as is, why mess with perfection?

This specific pictured 1963 Chevy Corvette Split Window Coupe
- On the whole, I typically don’t like Corvettes. That being said, I want this Corvette. It also has a very interesting history that my dad is a part of. It is one-of-a-kind and I am not rich, so the chances of me owning it are anywhere from slim to none. If anybody has more pictures of it, I would love to see it. It has been 12-15 years since I have seen it in person.
- It has a 427 Big Block with enough horsepower to blow the windows out of a garage door (That’s a fact).
- Mako Shark nose
- Clean body work, great engine, unique 1963 body….. it just doesn’t get better for me as far as corvettes go.

So those are my top 5 that I HAVE to own at some point. The good news is that I actually own 2 of them right now. The bad news is that neither are anything like my dream depicts them.

Now its your turn. What cars are on your top 5 list? Keep in mind that this is a dream, so go big!

Images borrowed from:
(Graham) http://www.remarkablecars.com
(Zephyr) http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/2479224114_8ac03af780.jpg?v=0
(Impala) http://www.rides-mag.com/online/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/64-impala-001.jpg

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