Diagnose Common Issues with First Generation Escape
The 1st generation Ford Escape is a crossover SUV that is available in model years 2001 to 2007. The Escape has problems, just like any other vehicle! In this article, we will review the top 5 Ford Escape problems and how you can fix them yourself.
The Ford Escape SUV was Ford’s solution for buyers that needed something smaller than the Explorer. When the 1st Generation model debuted in the automotive scene in 2001, it was one of the smartest SUVs available on the market. Its roomy interior, sharp handling, thoughtful design, and utmost comfort kept it ahead of its competition for a long time. This makes the top 5 Ford Escape problems a little more bearable.
Top 5 Ford Escape Problems (2001 to 2007)
1. Ignition Coil Failure
Symptoms of Ignition Coil Failure
The ignition coils are found just underneath the hood of the car and on top of its engine. They are responsible for creating an electric spark at the spark plugs once they receive voltage from the battery. The spark is used to ignite the fuel and provide the power needed to run the vehicle.
Some of the symptoms that you may notice when your ignition coils go bad include, a Check Engine Light that pops up on your dash or a car that runs as if it has a misfire. Other times, the car may operate as if it has reduced power or may not start at all.
The first-generation Ford Escape comes with either a four-cylinder or six-cylinder engine. The former comes with four ignition coils while the latter houses six of them. When one or more of these go bad, diagnosing the Check Engine Light might result in a code that tells you there’s a misfire.
Common Causes of Ignition Coil Problems on the Ford Escape
The problem is caused by several things. The most common is moisture and debris that makes its way into where the ignition coils connect to the spark plugs or onto the connector. This causes the metal contacts to rust and creates unwanted resistance. The moisture typically gets through from the top of the ignition coils or through a damaged boot. Damage to the coils could also be caused by heat coming from the engine.
How to Fix Ignition Coil Failure
The first step to fixing the problem is to find out which cylinder is generating the Check Engine Light. The next step is to give the respective ignition coil and its components a visual inspection. You want to check for any blue or green colors that show the presence of corrosion. Remove the spark plugs as well and check for any damages.
Overall, if you find any issues with the ignition coil by taking a look at it, swap it with another coil, and start the vehicle. This should help clear the Check Engine Light for a few seconds. When the light comes back on, check to see if the problem has shifted to another cylinder. If it has, you’ll have confirmed that you indeed have a problem with the ignition coil.
You’ll need to replace the ignition coil with a new one. It’s advisable to replace the others as well since they may also not be far off from failure. If the trouble code does not shift when you diagnose the Check Engine Light for a second time, it means you have a problem with something else other than the coil.
2. DPFE Sensor
Symptoms of a Bad EGR Sensor
DPFE stands for Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor. The sensor is responsible for measuring the pressure changes inside the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. The EGR ensures that the unburnt air and fuel mixture that doesn’t get used up in the combustion chamber recirculates back into the intake system so that it can get burnt up. This also helps to reduce pollution and global warming.
What the DPFE sensor does is monitor the amount of emissions being sent back into the combustion system. It is only found in the six-cylinder Ford Escape and not the four-cylinder version. When it goes bad, some of the symptoms that you may notice include a Check Engine Light that pops up on the dash, drivability and acceleration issues with your vehicle, and an engine that stumbles a bit.
Causes of a Bad EGR Sensor
The problem is caused by heat and carbon build-up inside the EGR system. When the carbon-filled gases pass by the sensor, they clog it up and impair its ability to make accurate pressure readings. Sometimes, the carbon build-up may cause increased heat within the system, causing hoses and connection points to melt.
How to Fix a Bad EGR Sensor
To fix the problem, you’ll need to first pull the trouble code from the Check Engine Light to ensure you’re fixing the right part. Assuming that it says you have a problem with the DPFE sensor or even the EGR valve, you want to pull them out and give them a visual inspection. You want to check for any damages with the connectors and hoses leading to them.
Also, take a look at all the parts internally to see if there’s any carbon build-up. You can scrape the insides to see if any black pieces will fall off. If you decide to clean it out, avoid using a brake cleaner as this could potentially damage the sensor. You can fit everything back into place once you’re done removing all the carbon.
If the Check Engine Light still pops up after reinstalling all the parts, you’ll need to replace them. Remember to replace both the DPFE sensor and the EGR valve.
3. Blower Motor Resistor
Symptoms of a Bad Blower Motor Resistor
The blower motor resistor is a component of the Ford Escape’s air conditioning system that controls the speed of the blower motor fan. When you go from the lowest climate control setting to the highest, it decreases the amount of voltage or resistance going from the switch to the blower motor.
Blower motor resistors come in all shapes and sizes. Some have coils to help control the resistance while others use microchips and small circuitries. The blower motor and its resistor are located underneath your passenger side dash right next to where the glove box is. They are easily accessible in the first-generation Ford Escape.
When you have a bad resistor, some of the symptoms that you’ll notice include having no power at lower climate control levels. When you turn the switch between level 1 and level 3, you get nothing. The blower motor only kicks in at level 4 with air coming out of the vents. You’re not going to have many other symptoms unless the blower motor is damaged. Such symptoms include a burning plastic smell due to overheating.
Causes of a Bad Blower Motor Resistor
The most common cause behind a bad motor resistor is moisture that finds its way into the HVAC coils and circuitry. This causes corrosion. Another cause behind it could be a blower motor that is bound or having a hard time turning. When the resistor sends power to it, it sends it back or holds onto it. This may cause a lot of voltage build-up that eventually damages the resistor.
How to Fix a Bad Blower Motor Resistor
One way that you can go about fixing the problem is to first inspect the resistor. If you see any damages, corrosion, or moisture on its coils or circuitry, go ahead and replace it. Remember to check the blower motor as well to make sure it’s not binding. Replace it together with the resistor if it’s too badly off.
4. Transfer Case Problems
Symptoms of Transfer Case Problems on the 1st Gen Ford Escape
Most SUVs on the market today have all-wheel-drive as a standard feature. This feature is made possible by a transfer case that helps to transfer power from the front wheels to the rear wheels. Without it, you’re only going to have a front-wheel-drive.
It’s quite common to have the transfer case go bad internally. The case is designed to house shafts that have gears on them. These components are supposed to stay copacetic to ensure everything works fine. However, the gears can sometimes shear right off the shaft, causing unwanted metal-to-metal contact.
One of the most common symptoms that you’ll notice in your first-generation Ford Escape is hearing metal tinging coming from your drivetrain. This can be very scary sometimes. The noise is caused by slipping gears inside the transfer case.
Other symptoms include not getting enough power from the car due to a broken shaft. In severe situations, you may not even be able to drive the vehicle at all. If you’re driving in snowy or muddy conditions, you may also notice that your rear wheels are not turning.
How to Fix Transmission Problems
The best solution to this problem is to go ahead and replace the transfer case. It wouldn’t be a good idea to replace the seals and other parts on their own. This is especially if you have metal components grinding on each other.
5. Tailgate Glass Breaking
Symptoms of Broken Tailgate Glass
The last common issue that we’ve encountered in the first-generation Ford Escape is a tailgate glass that breaks on its own. This happens without warning and could occur when you have the vehicle parked outside your house or when driving it on the road.
The only symptom of this issue is hearing a shattering noise and finding an open rear where the glass is supposed to be. The potential cause for this is stress caused by mounting points that are not torqued correctly. The glass experiences a lot of strain and tends to give in due to vibration or rapid temperature changes.
How to Fix Broken Tailgate Glass
Unfortunately, there’s no way to predict this or prevent it from happening. If the glass breaks, the only solution is to clean up the mess and replace it. You want to make sure you go for one that’s tempered for extra durability and strength.
1st Generation Ford Escape Model Years
- 2001 Ford Escape
- 2002 Ford Escape
- 2003 Ford Escape
- 2004 Ford Escape
- 2005 Ford Escape
- 2006 Ford Escape
- 2007 Ford Escape
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- Is Your Car Heater Not Blowing Air?
- How to Check for Bad Transmission Fluid
- Is your Transmission Slipping, Jerking, or Low on Fluid?
- Signs of a Failing or Bad Ignition Coil
- How to Test If an Ignition Coil Is Bad
Shop Parts to Repair Ford Escape Problems at 1A Auto
