P0011 Code Appeared? How to Diagnose & Fix

Steps to diagnose code P0011

1. Find the VVT Solenoid’s Location

   Before lifting the car up on a jack and jack stands and checking for oil leaks, find the VVT solenoid’s location. You may have to remove parts like the intake manifold to access them.

2. Check the Oil Level

   If there’s not enough oil, not be enough oil pressure will be at the VVT solenoids. Check the oil level and condition. You’ll need a proper oil level to test the VVT solenoids.
   
   More on how to check the oil

3. Check for Oil Leaks

   Check the oil pan for leaks or any signs of oil dripping. You may find a small one at the drain plug gasket, but this is common and is not considered a leak.
   
   Check the timing belt area.
   
   If you find a low oil level and no signs of leaking, the engine could be burning oil.
   
   Check the exhaust pipe for any cracks or heavy amounts of soot. The end of the tailpipe, for example, should not have a lot of soot. See if you can find any trails of soot, which is not a good sign. In our example, the soot had weight to it, meaning oil could be burning inside. If the engine is burning oil, it may not leave enough smoke out of the exhaust to see with a naked eye, but this is a sign oil is leaving the valves.
   
   

4. Run the Engine Until It’s Warm

   Run the engine until it’s hot. See if the engine idle drops. You’ll need a warm engine to test the VVT solenoids. It’s not a good sign if the engine idle isn’t dropping. As mentioned before, we also have a misfire, codes related to the variable valve timing, low oil level, oil consumption issues, and the engine is burning oil.

5. Test the Function of the VVT Solenoids

   
   2 Methods to Test the VVT Solenoids
   We are following a test from the manufacturer for both VVT solenoids. If you can’t access a printout of the schematic, we also review how to bench-test these parts.
   
   Test 1: Back-Probe and Ground Out the VVT Solenoids
   Test to see if the solenoid is frozen. They tend to freeze, and many freeze from lack of oil changes.
   
   You can ground out the power source for both solenoids at the front and back bank.
   While we don’t recommend back-probing as a go-to method, which is probing from the connector to measure a live electrical circuit, we’ll be using it for these solenoids.
   
   The VVT solenoid has an electrical connector with two wires, and the schematic indicates one is for power. You can also test this wire with a multimeter and check for voltage. This will allow you to confirm you have voltage going to both VVT solenoids and a reference point with the key on.
   
   Back-probe the VVT solenoid electrical connectors and ground out to the body of the vehicle. Then start the car and run it. You should notice an instant drop in RPMs if everything is working fine. With the engine running, tap the ground around 20 times, and watch and see if you can hear the timing advance and de-advance. If you tap the ground and the timing advances, the cam sprockets and timing chain are working fine. If you tap the ground and the idle doesn’t fluctuate with a timing advance, it means the camshafts are not working along with a VVT solenoid that’s probably frozen.
   
   In our case the idle fluctuates when we tap the ground, and we know the cams activate when we ground out both VVT solenoids at the same time because we can hear them snapping back and forth. To fix the problem on the vehicle in our example, we’ll do a proper oil change, replace the VVT solenoids, clear the code, and test drive the car.
   
   Test 2: Bench-Test the VVT Solenoids
   You can also remove the VVT solenoids and test them on a bench. At 14:50 in the video, we demonstrate how a new and old VVT solenoid sounds and works. A defective VVT solenoid will be slow to operate or won’t operate at all.
   
   You can test the VVT solenoid by removing it and putting power and ground to the solenoid with a power probe. If you don’t have a power probe, you can also use a battery pack or the battery. You can attach an alligator clip to the positive and negative on the battery, but make sure they don’t touch or come in contact with each other.
   
   To remove the solenoid, disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. Then remove the three mounting screws, and make sure they’re all the same length so you don’t have to be specific and can just lift the solenoid up and out.
   
   Lift the carbon gasket up and out and make sure debris behind it doesn’t fall down into the ports. Then clean the mating surface with a razor blade.
   
   With the solenoid removed and on a bench, turn the power probe on. Clip an alligator clip to the electrical connector and insert the probe. You can see it ground out in the video around 15:38 because the circuit isn’t broken. Then add power. If the solenoid isn’t working, it’ll make a slow, small click from the plunger and will only move partially up and down. It won’t sound like it’s working fully.
   
   

6. Replace the Defective VVT Solenoid

   You may have to remove more parts like the upper intake manifold to access the solenoids.
   
   Before installing the solenoid, clean the mating surface with brake parts cleaner and a cloth rag. This will remove carbon residue left behind and make the surface as smooth as possible. Install a new gasket and tighten the solenoid by hand to prevent damage to the gasket. Then torque the bolts to manufacturer’s specifications, and reconnect the electrical connector.

7. Change the Oil

   Do a proper oil change by draining the old oil, replacing the oil filter, adding new oil and checking the oil level.
   
   More on how to change the oil

8. Clear the Codes and Test Drive the Car

   Clear the codes. Then test drive the car and make sure the code or symptoms don’t return.