2010-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Problems (W212)

Mercedes Benz E-Class Problems

The Mercedes-Benz E-Class is known for its luxury and class, but, like most vehicles, over time 4th generation owners have reported problems this vehicle has run into. In this article, we cover what these problems are, and what their typical signs, causes, and fixes are for the Mercedes-Benz E-class (W212), years 2010-2016.

Top Issues 2010-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212)

1. Transmission Shifting Problems

Symptoms of Transmission Shifting Problems

  • Shifting issues occurring randomly
  • High revving and hard shifting when shifting between gears 3 to 1 or 1 to 3

Causes of Transmission Shifting Problems on the 4th Gen Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212)

Failed turbine speed sensor located inside the transmission

How to Fix Transmission Shifting Problems

Replace the turbine speed sensor. Consider bringing the vehicle to a professional as this is a comprehensive job and involves disassembling the transmission

2. Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor may not be the cause for these symptoms, but if it is we recommend replacing the camshaft position sensor at the same time. Both of these parts can go bad, cause similar symptoms, and are located in similar areas.

Symptoms of a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor on the 4th Gen Mercedes-Benz E-Class

  • Car dies when driving down the road
  • Engine cranks but fails to turn over when starting
  • Car starts, sputters, and eventually dies out
  • Symptoms are usually accompanied by a check engine light and P0336 code

How to Fix a Bad Crankshaft Position Sensor

Read the code from the check engine light with a scan tool and if replacing the crankshaft position sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor also

3. Worn Thrust Link

Thrust link on a Mercedes-Benz E-Class W212
Thrust link sitting above the CV axle

Symptoms of a Worn Thrust Link

  • Uneven wear on the tires
  • Tire wear on the inside/inner edge

Causes of a Worn Thrust Link

The forward thrust link helps keep the wheel from thrusting forward or backward. Sometimes the bushing on the end of the link rots, cracks, or loosens and separates, causing the forward thrust link to move easier. This play is rarely felt by moving the tire like when testing for a bad wheel bearing or bad ball joint, but it will cause uneven tire wear.

How to Fix a Worn Thrust Link

You can remove the forward thrust link and replace the bushing, but if this job feels too advanced, you can replace the entire forward thrust link

After completing this repair, we recommend a wheel alignment

4. Interior Part Issues

Faded wood paneling in Mercedes-Benz E-Class W212
Faded wood paneling

While the E-Class has a luxurious interior, there are some common issues with some of its interior parts, such as creaking or rattling trim panels when driving over a bump or seats that need to be repaired from tearing at the seams.

Symptoms of Interior Part Problems on the 10-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212)

  • Faded wood paneling
  • Creaky interior panels and trim
  • Navigation knob works intermittently
  • Ripped or torn seat cushioning

How to Fix Interior Part Problems Issues

  • Polish faded wood paneling
  • Apply shim to the interior panels and trim
  • Rebuild or replace the navigation knob
  • Repair the seat by reupholstering or replacing it

5. Automatic Digital Temperature Control Valve

Auto button for Automatic Digital Temperature Control Valve
Auto button for the automatic digital temperature control valve

Symptoms of a Bad Automatic Digital Temperature Control Valve

Auto button does not set the cabin to the desired warm temperature and cold air blows through the heat vents instead

Causes of a Bad Automatic Digital Temperature Control Valve

The auto button controls the automatic digital temperature control valve, which is located underneath the windshield wipers, cowl panel, and windshield wiper motor and linkages. It is placed on the firewall with a valve that has coolant hoses and an electrical wire leading to it.

The valve wears out because it has a two-piece housing unit sealed with a gasket. Once the gasket is defective, moisture gets inside, which leads to rust and corrosion on parts like the motor, bearings, gears, and shafts.

How to Fix a Bad Automatic Digital Temperature Control Valve

Locate the unit and test for power and ground. If there is power and ground, follow the standard procedure for removing it since it involves coolant.

Remove and take apart the two housings. If rust or corrosion is inside and wearing internal parts, chances are it needs to be replaced.

Shop 4th Gen 10-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212) Parts

Fix problems on your Mercedes-Benz E-Class W212 yourself with quality auto parts at 1aauto.com

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4th Generation Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212) Models by Year

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2010-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Problems (W212)
Article Name
2010-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Problems (W212)
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The Mercedes-Benz E-Class is known for its luxury and class, but, like most vehicles, over time 4th generation owners have reported common problems this vehicle has run into. In this article, we cover what these common problems are, and what their typical signs, causes, and fixes are for the Mercedes-Benz E-class (W212), years 2010-2016.
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1A Auto
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2 thoughts to “2010-16 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Problems (W212)”

  1. My W212 is a MY2010 with 161,xxx miles. I have a chirp when the car is idling. I believe it is a tensioner pulley. But the worst (IMO) problem is a knocking noise at idle AFTER the car warms up. Oil level is fine. The noise disappears when accelerating. I was afraid it was a dreaded “rod knocking” but that would be audible when accelerating and idling, right? The engine light is on. Has been for a year. The code (seemingly) isn’t related to a knock. Finally, my reverse camera is inoperable. The nav screen goes black when in reverse and the obligatory check surroundings script appears. It hasn’t irritated me enough to get it repaired…yet. If you could give me your thoughts, I’d appreciate it! I am “on the budget plan” since losing half of my income (yay) so I can’t afford taking it to a mechanic. I only put about 7,000 miles a year on it – mostly city/short commutes. Thanks for any help you can offer! I really enjoyed your vid!

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